The Colorful Tale of Mexico’s A-maize-ing Grain

, ,

This might sound corny, but the relationship between maize and humanity is essential. We rely on corn—globally, more maize is grown than wheat or rice—and, in turn, corn is utterly dependent on us, to the extent that it's lost the ability to reproduce without our help. But corn's wild ancestor is such an unappetizing weed that, for decades, archaeologists couldn't believe today's juicy cobs were all descended from it. From this unpromising beginning, we've got a story that involves empires, vampires, and generations of women chained to the (literal) grindstone. Pass the popcorn and settle in as we explore the past, present, and future of corn—and the many delicious ways Mesoamericans have invented to get their daily dose of vitamin T(ortilla). Plus: do blue and yellow corn chips actually taste different? And what does it mean for your relationship status if you can't get a tortilla to puff?


The shelves upon shelves of corn from around the world stored in the Maize Germplasm bank at CIMMYT, the world's largest collection of genetic biodiversity in corn. (Photos by Nicola Twilley)

Episode Notes

Jorge Gaviria

Jorge Gaviria is the founder of Masienda, a company producing quality masa from smallholder farms throughout Mexico.

Alberto Chassaigne

Alberto Chassaigne is the manager of the maize germplasm bank at CIMMYT, the International Maize and Wheat Improvement Center, in Mexico City.

A single stalk of teosinte, the weed that humans transformed into corn.

David Carballo

David Carballo is professor of anthropology, archeology, and Latin American studies at Boston University. He is the author of, among other books, Collision of Worlds: A Deep History of the Fall of Aztec Mexico and the Forging of New Spain, and the editor of Teotihuacan: The World Beyond the City. You can also hear him in our episode Feasting with Montezuma.

Jesús Salas Tornés

Jesús Salas Tornés is the chef and owner of Expendio de Maíz in Mexico City.

A sampling of the just a few of the many delicious tortilla-centric meals that our hosts enjoyed in Mexico City. Clockwise from bottom left: tostadas from a stand in Xalapa, Mexico, tacos from Maizajo, an enchilada from Expendio de Maiz, and a blue corn tortilla from Maizajo. (Photos by Nicola Twilley and Cynthia Graber)

Roxana Larrondo & the Herdez Foundation

Roxana Larrondo is the director of outreach at The Herdez Foundation, a museum, library, and institution dedicated to preserving and furthering Mexico's gastronomy and culinary history.

The Alfred P. Sloan Foundation for the Public Understanding of Science, Technology, and Economics

This episode of Gastropod was supported by a generous grant from the Alfred P. Sloan Foundation for the Public Understanding of Science, Technology, and Economics. Check out the other books, movies, shows, podcasts, and more that they support here.

Burroughs Wellcome Fund

This episode of Gastropod was supported in part by the Burroughs Wellcome Fund for our coverage of biomedical research.

Rodrigo Pérez Ortega

Rodrigo Pérez Ortega is an award-winning, bilingual science journalist based in Mexico City, and we couldn't have reported this episode without his help. Find more of his writing from Science Magazine, The New York Times, Quanta, and elsewhere on his website.